Hoddles Creek Revisited

It was a long way back when I last—first—visited Hoddles Creek Estate. I'd dropped by en route to Healesville, having spent the latter part of the arvo tasting at Gembrook Hill. Dusk had disappeared; night not quite arrived. Wires and canes were barely discernible, so too late for a tour of the estate.

We tasted extensively of the liquid it grows though, which is when I grabbed the picture of Franco d’Anna—published here—wine thief in hand, speaking eloquently of his Pinot as he drew it from barrel. Checking the file’s exif data I'm informed that it was taken almost exactly a decade ago that I’m writing these words—the 25th June 2015 at 17:55. The time being confirmed by Franco’s wristwatch.

Over the ensuing decade I’ve had the opportunity to taste pretty much everything that’s been bottled by the d’Anna family under the Hoddle’s Creek and Wickham’s Hills labels. But it’s only now that I’ve got to see where the wines are grown and 

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Hoddles Creek Estate Junior 2023 (Yarra Valley, Vic)

Hoddles Creek Junior Pinot Blanc 2023 02

Crunchy, granny smith apple crumble chilled from the fridge. So there’s sweet, just caramelised, orchard fruit among sharper chewy skin things, as well as a comfy smelling wheatiness. Radish too. Not quite dried thyme, and then gentle brebis, semi hard-sheep cheese wafts. There's chew here too: chew, and then some small cell pear juiciness. Compressed in the middle but it opens, revealing gentle, sapid-sweet glazed globe artichoke sapid sweetness. Root veggies and threads of crunchy chewy winter orchard fruit. Bracing icy quartz dust sparkle among the fruit density. Such a pleasure to taste this. 95/100 (e) - 9/10 (h) - 😋😋 - $45 cellar direct. As you can figure, I’m a bit of a fan of this. No idea how it will age, but then why would you need it too when it’s so sublime now?